Part of the countryside we were walking through is associated with legends of Roland; this explanatory display had been edited by some roving snarky historians. The graffiti reads: “Then he went & burned down Pamplona, despite his promise not to. And the Basques ambushed Roland at Roncesvalles & killed him. Moral You can kick giant ass but don’t mess with the Vascas.” For more on the tale of Roland and Ferragut, check out this retelling.
Coming to the Edge 